Been driving one (RHD in the US) since I began driving 46 years ago.
Be certain to have a very qualified mechanic/shop who really knows these cars to maintain them properly in all regards, including the tricky brake servo. I am skilled mechanically but only do oil/filter (get a good spin on filter adapter- ditch the cannister/cartridge) & other minor things, largely because of the need for special tools/procedures & the maddening array of odd British nut/bolt/wrench sizes & threads. Also, I don’t want to make any expensive errors or break/damage things.
I put a Pertronix electronic ignition in the distributor (plus coil) & it works well, worth doing. Also, ditch the (arcane & less effective) metal gauze air filter if you have one & put a paper one in for longevity.
Use oil (20W-50 in summer) such as Castrol GTX or Penn Grade that contains ZDDP (zinc & phosphorous) to protect the flat tappets/cam lobes; or add a bottle of Lucas ZDDP at each oil change. Change it & filter annually, no matter what, along with other fluids including coolant & brake fluid. In winter storage, fill with gasoline & use proper stabilizer like Sta-Bil; turn on the ignition, run the fuel pumps & (don’t touch the throttle/no choke) crank the engine a few seconds to move/reposition the valves & pistons every month or so.
It is not a Toyota- so don’t try to treat it like one or you will end up with a neglected & expensive mess. Also, have your mechanic open/clean the rear differential if not done to avoid sludge & very expensive wear/damage.
Another thing: drive it regularly in season as they last longer & run better if you do so. It is a great car to drive if cared for properly, & very popular/appreciated by others. But if you own one for decades expect to spend more than the cost of the car for proper/required service.
Submitted by Charlie Clark
Image of 1965 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud III sold at auction by Evoke
Submitted by: Charlie Clark
